What a fabulous passion to choose.

I flew to the city of Kona on the Big Island, where my friend, Burke, was managing an apartment complex. He had set it up so I would have my own apartment. When I got there, he immediately took me to some of the local surf spots. I took to surfing long lefts at Pine Tree. I surfed every day, sometimes twice, doing three-hour sessions.
The Joy of Being a Surfer — One Morning on the Big Island
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Gentry Bronson
Deb Palmer
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Aug 30, 2023
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What a fabulous passion to choose. Thank you for sharing what it is like. I know very little about it so this was an interesting and fun read for me--even exhilarating!
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Written by Deb Palmer
2.4K Followers
·966 Following
Author & Freelance Storyteller — Sweeping humor and gut-wrenching truth from under the rug —
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